Martine Rose FW24 Review

Hedonism in a Football Jersey

Martine Rose FW24

I’ve talked about how Rick Owens’ brand identity remains strong because he isn’t imitating the semblance of a lifestyle brand, but rather designing in a way that reflects and fulfills the needs of living, and Martine Rose is doing the same, but with less goth angst. Because she derives pleasure from observing how people live, act, move and dress, and collaborates closely with Tamara Rothstein to platform personal styling that occurs as the result of need, her shows are imbued with a sense of organic familiarity. 

Once again, she presents a collection about relationships, heredity, time and space. Models walked down the runway to fanfare, cheered on by fashion insiders and friends of the brand for her AW24 show. The show was reminiscent of Kinky Gerlinky, and Dick Jewel’s filmographic work of 1980s and early 90s London nightlife, which she’s referenced in her work before.

The spirit and energy of the runway show (loud cheering, surprise, people interpreting the subtleties of the cultural references throughout each look) isn’t replicable by Lifestyle Brands ™ , which seem to fail at capturing life or style. Brands are failing to capture people’s attention meaningfully because they’re focused on effectively establishing themselves online for ephemeral viral circulation on High Fashion twitter (or whatever) rather than speaking to actual people about actual people. Connecting with humanity using familiar codes of EXISTENCE (sharply dressed uncles, borrowing your sister’s clothes before a night out, queering fashion because it’s all you can afford) is very different from using algorithms and data to design the “perfect” runway show. 

Rather than relying on metrics, Rose’s team seems to rely on relating to universal spirit. Masterfully tailored and styled nightlife fits cascade down the runway with excitement and flamboyance (she’s always bringing life to her work, spirit, community and fellowship– which are what make FASHION move MEANING). As always, mixing vintage looking nightlife fashion with sportswear, with queer and girly flair

• Make note of look 9, unzipped pants 

• Heart shaped buckles on shoes

• Accessories like Martine Rose handbag in look 10

• 1980s hair and draped silhouettes throughout

Now, let’s get down to business about the PERVERTED hedonism!